Lisbon is lovely but has a way to go with accessibility
Thinking of visiting Lisbon and need good access? Read this first ...
We took Max (not his real name) to Lisbon this last April (09). We had been there before by ourselves and had found the city and its people friendly and hospitable. Going with Max was a different story. Max has one bad leg and uses a walking stick. He can manage to walk short distances slowly on level ground.
Getting around
We inquired ahead about public transport - we had walked everywhere last time. The metro was handy to our hotel. It could take us everywhere. There were also buses and trams of various types, old and new. And there were always taxis. We didn't see any wheelchair ones though.
Max doesn't need a wheelchair although at times we wished we could borrow one for him, so access to buildings with steps was not so great a problem. The little side streets that suddenly become steps were another matter. Be aware that only newer buildings will be completely accessible and accessible loos - well forget it. The only ones we found were at railway stations, the newer metro stations, the bus station, and the big department store complex, El Corte Ingles. Public ones tend to be underground down steps and male only.
Max was fine on the metro and the trams. Getting on and off quickly enough was the main issue. Wheelchair access on the metro is confined to the newer and refurbished stations which have lifts (elevators) and almost level access - the platforms tends to be 4-6" below the train. Otherwise there are steps, no lifts (elevators), and the platform is at a lower level than the train. The new trams have not quite level access - the step is about 6 inches above the platform - there is a [wheelchair] button for help - and spaces for wheelchairs inside. We didn't try the buses, except for tour buses at Sintra which certainly were not accessible for chair users.
Where the streets are level, they are cobbled - or rather, paved with little ceramic tiles -in the old city centre which can be quite bumpy, and slippery in the rain.
The police get round on these trendy scooters!
Where to go (or not to go)
We made two day excursions while there. The first one was to the town (well really Lisbon suburb) of Belem, home of the Vasco Di Gama monument and the Torres museum, the Jeronimite monastry where his tomb is (shown in the picture, access at other entrance), and the maritime museum, the president's palace, and various other things worth seeing. There are good eating places there too. The only problem was that the tram deposited us on one side of the railway track and the monument and the Torres museum were on the other. The only way across is by footbridge with... many steps, and steep ones at that. We saw tour buses depositing people where we wanted to go, but they didn't look accessible either. It took quite a bit of walking to get to the footbridge and then to the monument. From there we tried to get into the Torres museum. Forget it if you have a mobility issue. Max had had enough by then and so we aborted our other plans.
We went to Sintra on a suburban train. You catch it at Rossio station. The station is accessible but the trains are not. The same went for the tourist buses you catch at Sintra railway station to go up to the castles - Mouros and Pena - perched on the top of the hills overlooking the town. Sintra is beautiful and well worth a visit but any one with mobility issues would need to go by car to the town and on up to Pena. Mouros - well the tracks may be manageable with a powerful motorised chair. At Pena the 'ground floor' with the cafeteria and loos is accessible and there are wonderful views, but much of the castle has steps and stairs.
Where to stay
The only way to be sure of accessible accommodation is to use the non-local international chains such as Best Western or Holiday Inn. Our locally owned hotel was ok for someone ambulant but had steps up to the lobby from the outside and the bedroom doors and some corridors were quite narrow. The website descriptions of hotels can be quite misleading. Those called Residencial are not required to meet government standards and are often very basic, even for travellers prepared to rough it!
Verdict: not quite there but improving. Lisbon is lovely city which needs to be more accessible. The next time we go we expect to see changes for the better with access to public transport. Accessible loos outside of public buildings will be longer coming.
Email us if you would like us to arrange customised travel for you or provide more information.
______________________________________________________________
Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, Art Deco architecture, Mediterranean climate, vineyards, and a wonderful new coastal path
The sign used to say, 'Welcome to Hastings District' about halfway from Taupo to Napier. At the southern end of the region, coming in by road from Palmerston North or the Wairarapa, the sign still reads: 'Welcome to beautiful Central Hawke's Bay.
The Bay from the highway north of Napier
Beautiful it all is, from startlingly stark mountains (the Ruahines) when not shrouded in cloud or hidden by the Hastings smog (asthmatics beware) to acres and acres of vineyards and orchards. some with good restaurants. Not to mention Hawke's Bay (really Hawke Bay) itself, with its green sea fringed by Norfolk pines at Napier and wonderful panoramic views of Cape Kidnappers and the Mahia Peninsula. And the Mediterranean climate in the coastal areas is the other thing! We were there in June and the winter weather would rival UK and Irish summer weather. Sun day after day and temps getting into the 20s (celsius).
The sign says welcome but how hospitable is the Bay to tourists who cannot foot it? This visit we began to assess this and will add to our comments here in future.
Once you are there, the terrain and many of the features are well-suited to getting about in a wheelchair. The twin cities of Hastings and Napier are largely flat and well-laid out with good kerbing and accessible cafes, bars and restaurants (although you may need to attract the attention of someone to move chairs and tables for you and there may be the problem of no waiter/waitress service for outside seating areas - a problem not confined to this region). And there is a wonderful coastal path around a few stretch of the bay, beginning at Bayview north of Napier and running to westshore in Napier, then beginning again off marine parade south of the city and running almost to Clive.
Things to do
Just wander around the Art Deco centre of Napier taking in the sun and the cafes. Ahuriri, just north of the city centre on the waterfront, is also a very relaxing spot to visit. The Shed 2 Cafe and Bar is wheelchair friendly with plenty of space.
The National Aquarium in Napier is well worth a visit and is completely accessible with facilities for mobility of a high standard. Another great thing to do is take the winery trail, visiting vineyards for tasting and eating!
Take a look at the Wine Hawkes Bay website or download a list of wineries (you will need Acrobat Reader for this if you do not already have it installed). The Mission Estate in Taradale has good access and parking and a craft gallery as well as a restaurant. It pays to book first for the restaurant.
Then there are the various heritage trails and nature walkways. Napier City Council and Sport Hawkes Bay have information on these. Be aware that access to nature reserves will be mostly limited to the carparks (but worth it for the views from Te Mata Peak). The around-town trails should be fine, although Napier Hill is steep! Make sure you don't miss the Rotary coastal path with its great access and spectacular views of the bay. For up to date information including downloadable maps (need Acrobat) with accessibility information, click here.
If you are into birdwatching and related things.... check out Ahuriri Estuary - the lower area is accessible from hwy 2 from just north of the bridge. We saw Royal Spoonbills there - winter visitors - over 55 species live in or seasonally visit the estuary. The railway embankment and bridge can be accessed from near the holiday camp just south of the railway crossing. This disused road is in poor repair but reasonable for a wheelchair. The upper estuary can be viewed from the road access just south of the airport but trails are not wheel-chair friendly and some gates may be locked!
If you are into extreme sports... pay Backup's website a visit in case they have an event that will coincide with your visit. Backup are based in Ahuriri (Napier) and specialise in providing people with mobility problems with experiences usually only available to people who can walk, swim or climb!
Where to stay
Hawkes Bay has motels with good access and a welcome for customers with mobility problems. Email us if you would like us to arrange a booking.
Verdict: easy, friendly, beautiful - a must-do!
Email us if you would like us to arrange customised travel or provide more information.
